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By Shaad D’Souza
Dune: Part 2 star Timothée Chalamet becoming an action star in his own right, nor Zendaya’s turn as a fierce freedom fighter, nor even a bald Austin Butler doing his more productive Dr. Evil voice. The genuine hero of Dune: Part 2 is the clothes: from the Rick Owens-style armor worn by the Sardukaur warriors to the Dilara Findikoglu-style chainmail worn by Florence Pugh as Princess Irulan, it’s been a long time since a blockbuster felt so in tune with current fashion.
Science fiction has been a source of inspiration for fashion designers for decades. Raf Simons referenced vintage Blade Runner from the ’80s in his Spring/Summer 2018 exhibition in Chinatown and a collaboration with Eastpak from the same year. Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection, Plato’s Atlantis, his penultimate before his death, was an ambitious futuristic vision in which the models were made to look like Alien’s titular hellish monster. The sleek all-leather suits of The Matrix would possibly have been, first of all, a mirror. They have an image of the BDSM culture of the 90s, but have since obtained an abbreviation of the recent fashion reduction of the year 2000.
Raf Simons’ Blade Runner at the SS18 parade.
But rather than influencing the clothes of the near future, Dune: Part Two is more tied to what’s happening now. In an interview with British Vogue, fashion designer Jacqueline West said she “drew a lot of inspiration from [H. R. ‘(s) art. Giger,” the surrealist Swiss horror artist who designed the alien in Alien, while also modeling garments for the gothic-looking Harkonnens. This influence is quite obvious. But it’s also simple to watch Dune: Part 2 and see many of the hallmarks of today’s menswear and even streetwear.
The palette (mostly sandy, vegetable, and cloudy browns and faded black) is similar to that used on labels such as Fear of God, Craig Green, and Casey Casey; The ceremonial garments worn by Feyd-Rautha Harkonnen, Butler’s sociopath, are reminiscent of the long, straight drooping robes worn by cult designer Kiko Kostadinov. The frayed shawls and deconstructed coats worn by Paul Atreides of Chalamet appear to have been designed by Yohji Yamamoto in the 1990s. (You can believe that Grailed dealers increased their costs on the Yohji archive on Halloween to capitalize on Paul’s inevitable double-breasted suits and haute couture. )The desert landscape of Dune is there, right down to the very old patina effect on life. save garments. stills through Chalamet & Co. It can also be discovered in Margiela’s gloves and sweaters, which are deliberately moldy.
And those tweaks feel like Rick Owens, too, as does Harkonnen’s turtleneck armor. There are flared hems and rugged boots with ridges, and everything looks a lot like Owens’ vintage outfit: cult couture that looks like it’s been teleported. to a remote apocalyptic planet.
Timothée Chalamet as Paul Atreides in Dune: Part Two
It’s easy to draw parallels between Dune: Part 2 and men’s fashion today. While pandemic fashion trends tended toward escapism and fantasy (think JW Anderson’s ambitious strawberry prints of 2021), much of post-pandemic fashion turns out to be mindful of what garments might look like. as in a long period marked by disease, famine and ecological collapse. Will archival pieces begin to deteriorate, like the rotten garments in Margiela?Will biodegradable herbal dyes replace artificial dyes, the creation of which requires poisonous chemicals?Do you want to be layered and completely covered to fight a boiling, waterless world?
Future Dune films will perhaps make this connection between cinema and the new fashion even more explicit. It would be pretty far-fetched to see a designer like Owens or Kostadinov contribute to the costumes for a potential sequel. There is precedent for such a collaboration: Jean-Paul Gaultier designed iconic, avant-garde costumes for the 1997 sci-fi classic, The Fifth Element. Paco Rabanne created Barbarella’s campy dresses in 1968. Si there’s a Dune: Part Three on the maps in the short or long term, which is probably to say, given how successful the second part was, we’ll see Rick Owens land in Arrakis.
This story appeared in the British GQ with the headline “Dune: Rick Owens’ second part is accidental and full of bizarre real-world hoaxes. “
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